Materials and Making

The term "appliqué" is derived directly from the French word for "applied" and refers to any decoration cut from one piece of fabric which is then sewn to another. This seemingly very simple technique can lend itself to a wide range of final appearances, so that one piece of appliqué can look very different from another depending on the type of fabrics and stitch used, and on where this type of decoration is used. It can be particularly effective using bold striking coloured panels on an otherwise plain ground, as in the scarlet and black applique tabs on the croquet skirt below.

This bold bulky collar has been created using complex techniques, and has been applied to a black woman's coat or jacket of about 1905, using its contrasting colours to give immediate impact. The applied pieces of fabric have been hand embroidered with orange and yellow motifs before being cut out and sewn to the collar with black thread. The garment is thus entirely defined by its extravagant collar, the body of the coat being plain black wool. Similar decoration of the same date and creating the same impression, has slao been used on waistcoat fronts attached to the grey silk suit.

Full item descriptions:

"jacket" [1947.3999]
"coat & skirt" [1956.272], Horan Smith & Goulden Ltd.
"croquet skirt" [1947.505]

Related Themes:

Dressing Up, Dressing Down